Cime di rapa
Sorry about the smell; we’re making greens.
No one could cook up a pot of greens like Stefano’s grandma, nonnetta, as she was known to us.
Broccoli rabe, or cime di rapa in Italian, was Nonetta’s specialty. Earthy, mildly bitter, and perfectly seasoned, she had us sopping up the juices with pieces of bread and then asking for seconds.
The literal translation of cime di rapa is “turnip tops,” but that’s not exactly accurate, as they don’t really come from turnips. The English name “broccoli rabe” is misleading as well since the plant is not actually broccoli, despite its broccoli-looking little buds. Rather, cime di rapa is a plant in its own right, a relative to turnips, mustard greens, and broccoli.
Called rapini in some parts of Italy and related to friarielli of Neapolitan cuisine, cime di rapa are perhaps most known for the role they play in the classic pasta dish from Puglia called orecchiette con cime di rapa. In authentic Roman pizzerias, you often find pizza con cime di rapa e salsiccia (sausage) on the menu, and when we do, Stefano is sure to order it. It may seem like an odd pizza topping to the uninitiated, but it’s truly delicious.
Although a staple of southern US cooking, greens are not as readily embraced here in the northern states. Cime di rapa are our favorite green, but mustard and turnip greens can be prepared the exact same way and are equally delectable.
Yes, they are a bit smelly. I once popped by a friend’s house in Italy, and she greeted me at the door by saying, “Hi, come in. Sorry about the smell; we’re making greens.” However, the smell dissipates quickly and is a small price to pay for their deliciousness.
Cime di rapa are simple to make. Just blanch the greens and then sauté them in olive oil, garlic, and crushed red pepper. Nonnetta’s secret was to add a spoonful or two of tomato paste – just enough to add a touch of flavor and color. Serve them in their juices with plenty of good, crusty bread.
Ingredients
4 servings
1 bunch broccoli rabe, or substitute mustard or turnip greens
3-4 Tablespoons of Extra-virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic
Crushed red pepper
Salt
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
Instructions
Trim the tough ends of the stems and discard any yellow or damaged leaves.
Rinse the greens under cold water.
Slice any thick stems vertically along the midrib so that the greens cook evenly.
Place the greens into a large skillet, add a cup of water, cover the pan, and blanch for about five minutes or until the thickest stems are tender.
Remove the greens and drain the cooking water.
Slice the garlic cloves in half, remove and discard the germ.
Heat the olive oil in the skillet over medium heat.
Add the garlic and a dash of crushed red pepper, and sauté until the garlic is golden and fragrant (1–2 minutes).
Add the blanched greens and tomato paste to the skillet.
Season with salt and toss to coat the greens in the oil and seasonings.
Cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender.
Notes
Use good quality tomato paste, such as Mutti’s double-concentrated tomato paste. Or, a dash of good tomato puree will work just as well.
I actually like the smell. Am I weird?